The Fish Shack is Back

Heavenly fish tacos have arrived on the stretch of Red Road between Bird and Flagler at Fish Shack Market.

One of the best dishes: the daily Triple Tail catch. Thick pieces of fish are seasoned and seared a la plancha. They land on crunchy strips of julienne green cabbage inside a flash fried corn tortilla. Then, each crisp bundle is topped with freshly-made pico de gallo, bunches of chopped cilantro and finely diced fresh jalapeno.

A steamed corn tortilla sleeve, true to Mexican custom, is folded under the luscious package to prevent breakage. Multiplied by three, these beauties are piled side by side into a paper boat, next to a shooter of spicy tomato cocktail to cleanse the palate with sips between bites. Fish Shack Market is the result of the merger of Lucho Cuba, a Caffe Abracci alum who spent 14 years behind its storied bar, and his friend of practically as long, chef Andre.

They recently re-opened the restaurant (under their new management). Lucho had been sourcing fresh seafood for restaurants for a while, so it was only a matter of time before the Chilean sea bass, grouper, lane snapper, Scottish salmon, Appalachicola oysters, and blue crabs ended up in his refrigerated case. The dining room doubles as a market and is camped up with seaside d├ęcor. The $12 "executive menu," also available to non-executive-types, includes the fillet of fish of the day with a salad or soup and choice of two sides like house-made (not frozen) tostones, parsley potatoes, rice or thick cut fries.

Fish comes either grilled, blackened, pan-seared or fried with a selection of sauces if desired, like lemon butter, mustard, cilantro, passion fruiit and island curry. Starters include ceviches ($10-13,) fried seafood like conch fritters ($8) and buffalo shrimp ($12,) and clams on the half shell. We sampled the crab cakes ($12) which were generous on lump meat, but a little greasy and undercooked, as if they landed in a pan of oil that wasn't quite up to temperature.

A wide selection of "Fishermen's Soup" includes sopon marinero ($17,) clams in a cilantro garlic broth ($11), mussels in a spicy red broth ($9), conch chowder ($4/cup; $6/bowl,) and lobster bisque ($7). Three fish sandwiches and one chicken are available. Something tells us that they make a mean fish and chips ($12,) as well. On Wednesdays fish from the Mediterranean is flown in. The Shack doesn't have a liquor license, but there is wine and beer, including Venezuelan Polar for $5.

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