Sneak Review: Talavera Cocina Mexicana
Take the two salsas that jump start diners -- one red, one green, both pureed to the sort of seamlessly smooth consistency that would satisfy the most stringent of French chefs. There are those (including myself) who generally prefer their salsas rough and chunky, but you really can't beat the smoky flavor of the milder tomato-guajillo dip, or the gutsy-hot tomatillo-habañero one. The blue and white corn chips, on the other hand, demonstrate why sometimes modern improvements are not improvements at all; they have that dull, flat-flavored greaselessness resulting from having been baked rather than fried.
Talavera Cocina Mexicana 2299 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables; 305-444-2955.