Two Opposing Views on Talula

Categories: The Critic
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My editor told me about a dinner he'd had at Talula and noted the lack of customers. He thinks it deserves better, while my take is that there is a reason for those empty seats. He wrote down his thoughts, and I responded:

Miami New Times editor Chuck Strouse: I love Talula. The 23rd Street joint just up from the Bass Museum on Miami Beach is creative, fun, and... empty. I was there Saturday night and enjoyed a fantastic cavatelli dish, super clams in a broth that I slurped up with the excellent bread, and a fine, reasonably priced DeLoach Pinot Noir. Owners Frank Randazzo and Andrea Curto-Randazzo have run this joint for six-plus years outside the usual South Beach whirlwind, and that in itself is an achievement. So I was disappointed to see a largely empty dining room when I left at 9 p.m. for a nearby show at the new Little Stage Theater that's within walking distance.

Sure, the lamb we had was a tad underdone, and some of the fish was a little dry, but I love this place... the outdoor seating in back has the mellow feel of the Keys. I could spend my life there. So I hope to hell the place comes back into the popular eye. It deserves better.
My response: When Talula opened in 2003, it was one of very few worthwhile dining destinations on South Beach -- and there weren't many other decent places to eat outside of South Beach. Talula is arguably as good now as it was back then -- although I have found it to be inconsistent (as in your lamb and fish) and not especially impressive during the occasions I've dined there. But it doesn't matter what you or I think. As some folkie once sang: The first one now will later be last, for the times they are a-changin'.

Change in this case is a huge increase in competition. The Gansevoort and W, both within a couple of blocks, have recently introduced Philippe, STK, Mr. Chow, and Solea. The Fontainebleau's numerous restaurants aren't that far away either, nor are all of the South Beach spots that have popped up over the years. Then there is the Design District, where the fame of chefs such as Michelle Bernstein, Michael Schwartz, and Jonathan Eismann overshadow that of Frank Randazzo or Andrea Curto-Randazzo in a way that wasn't true some time ago. Name recognition brings the tourists; Talula is too pricey for locals-only to sustain.

Another problem is that while the cuisine of the three cited chefs has grown quite a bit since 2003, Talula hasn't seen a similar gastronomic progression. That would be fine if the room was still getting packed -- after all, there's nothing wrong with chefs sticking to their vision. But in the face of Talula charging similarly high prices as the competition, and in light of those empty seats you espied, one might expect Curto-Randazzo to acquiesce a bit more to the times. But much, much more important: They should be making sure that not only is the pasta impeccable, but also the lamb and fish entrées. With intense competition and a shaken economy, this sort of inconsistency doesn't cut it.
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