Sneak Review: Emeril's

There are two ways to go with this fare: Serve traditionally prepared dishes at modest prices, or up the ante and tab by redefining it in 21st Century manner (be it via the natural, organic, route, or by way of visually dazzling fusions with haute ingredients). Emeril's is stuck in-between, the plates looking less like self-billed "new New Orleans" cuisine than stuff the Mango Gang was putting out in the early Nineties -- with a teeny Tabasco-size dash of Louisiana heat. New Orleans has less of a presence on this menu than it had as a city the day after Katrina: No jambalaya, crawfish étouffée, blackened fish, tasso ham, andouille sausage with rice & beans...there is, however, a starter of tuna-lettuce wraps with crispy wontons, jalapeño, yuzu ponzu and basil oil.