Grazie's New Zealand Lamb Rack a Steal at $29

John Zur

New Zealand rack of lamb

​The appeal of Grazie Italian Cuisine comes in part from its curious location on Washington Avenue. In a neighborhood of casual eateries and dives, a restaurant that prides itself on quality of service and food is a refreshing thought, especially when the prices are more than fair.

On a Tuesday night, that saw more than half of the 75-seat restaurant occupied, owner Spurgeon Solomon greeted guests, took orders, delivered food, and cleared wine glasses. The pride he takes in the establishment, he co-owns with Moshe Petel, is a rarity to see in owners.

Service is strong, from confident servers greeting the table and carefully executing the evening's specials to prompt clearing and crumbing between courses. While the service and comforting ambiance -- soft background music, just-right lighting, wrinkle-free linens, rich woods -- is on par with, or superior to, some of South Beach's hipper Italian restaurants, the prices are not. Sure the menu isn't as extensive as others, such as SoBe Italian competitors Prime Italian and Devito South Beach, but the quality of Grazie's limited selection is noticeable.

John Zur

Branzino

​Wines by the glass, including a superb 2009 Callaway sauvignon blanc from California and a smooth Ruta 22 malbec from Patagonia, are priced at $11. The sauvignon blanc was paired with one of the specials, the branzino ($31) that was pan-seared and served over sauteed spinach in a light citrus sauce with scalloped potatoes, broccoli, olives, capers, and sun-dried tomatoes.

The malbec paired nicely with the New Zealand lamb rack ($29). Eight chops are served four to a rack. The process begins with a simple rub consisting of olive oil, garlic, salt, pepper, rosemary, and thyme. Then there is a searing before being crusted in Italian bread crumbs and pecorino romano. The rack is then baked and served with a demi glace made from lamb bones, rosemary, and garlic. The rack of lamb is served with garlic mashed potatoes. The tenderness of the lamb, which attained the requested temperature of medium-rare perfectly, was a truly exceptional rack of lamb complete with rich flavors.

Grazie Italian Cuisine
701 Washington Ave., Miami Beach
305-673-1312