Sneak Review: Blue Door Fish

Lee Klein

Blue Door's Lemon Meringue Pie

Crabavocat and "big ravioli" are two longstanding Troisgrois classics still offered. The latter is sensational, a single, sizable, sumptuous ravioli plumped with mousseline of taro root, perfumed with a drizzle of truffle oil, and bathed in a foam of wild mushroom "cappuccino". The crabavocat is really just a juiced-up version of crab-stuffed avocado, elevated by a spicy tomato coulis and a few crisp shrimp. We preferred the crabcake, large pearly lumps of jumbo lump crab barely bound by anything but a light bread coating.