Sneak Review: Lulu

Lee Klein

Lulu's snapper in cream sauce

"'I am of those who like to stay late at the café,' the older waiter said. 'With all those who do not want to go to bed. With all those who need a light for the night.'" The passage from Ernest Hemingway, perhaps better than any in literature, exemplifies the need for a no-fuss place to meet, eat, drink, talk, read, or simply sit and watch people pass by.

Lulu hopes to encourage a similar camaraderie at the bustling intersection of Main Highway and Commodore Plaza. White letters on the back of the staff's black T-shirts spell out the mission: neighborfood. Plus the place stays open until 2 a.m. Wednesday through Saturday for "those who do not want to go to bed." Granted, Coconut Grove 2011 isn't exactly the Latin Quarter of the '20s, and conversation emanating from the restaurant's sidewalk tables will likely not be confused with the sort of verbiage exchanged between Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald. Still, Lulu is a hospitable stop where friends can gather and enjoy themselves over affordable wines and a smart selection of popular bites.