Pizza Fusion: Organic Doesn't Necessarily Mean Good
|Fusion's individual pie|
I'm speaking of the just-opened branch in the Shops at Fifth and Alton in South Beach. There was a Pizza Fusion at 148th Street and Biscayne Boulevard, but that one didn't last long. Upon first bite of the pie in this new shop, I think I know why the other one closed.
Besides pizza, there are three appetizers (flatbread and dip trio; mini meatball sliders; stuffed mushrooms, $6 to $9.50); three sandwiches ($9); and five salads served in half or full portions ($6 to $7, or $10 to $11). I sampled a half of chicken bruschetta salad. The arugula, romaine, red onions, basil, garlic-heavy bruschetta mix, and crostini are organic. The free range chicken and fresh mozzarella cheese, both cut into a small dice, are not organic, but the larger problem with these two ingredients is that they are apparently refrigerated with the rest in pre-made platings -- which means the chicken and cheese are ice cold. Otherwise, it's a good salad and pretty decent deal for $7 (with a choice of dressing on the side).
|Bruschetta salad, half portion|
I tried a personal pie with a white crust that was thin and floppy and topped with simply tomato sauce and melted mozzarella and provolone cheeses($7). The crust and cheeses were passable, but the sauce tasted overcooked -- or lousy for some other reason. The pizza seemed homemade in a primitive sense, as in a refined version of a college student's rendition: English muffin halves topped with bottled tomato sauce and melted cheese. Maybe it would be better with a whole bunch of toppings.
The concept of an "earth-friendly" pizza place is great. Too bad the pizza isn't.
1115 Fifth St., Miami Beach
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