Miami Spice 2011: The Good, the Great, and the Grudging (More Menus)

Does Meat Market bring the beef?

​Miami Spice begins today. Some restaurants embrace the $35 prix fixe three-course menu with more relish than others. We categorize those that are generous with choices and availability as "great." Worthwhile deals offered in the right spirit are "good." And those whose Spice deal looks to be the result of a severely twisted arm are listed under "grudging."

Last Wednesday we looked at menus from Miami Beach establishments. Next day was the Design District, midtown, and north. Friday we covered the Gables, Grove, and points south.

We'll repeat the caveat that we haven't eaten these Miami Spice dinners, so we are not taking portion size into account. And our assumption is that food quality will be fine because we've included the better establishments on the list. We're really judging the menu and attitude more than the meal.

Today we'll take a peek at some menus that were released after we began. Tomorrow: a composite listing of the Good, the Great, and the Grudging.

A colorful menu from Bourbon Steak.

The Good

Bourbon Steak: The items on this menu are quite appetizing; too bad there's a $10 supplement for one of the three entrées -- a Wagyu NY strip with jasmine rice. That leaves the main course selections as chicken confit pappardelle with burrata cheese, or grilled local wahoo with Thai lobster consommé. Apps are American artisan speck with grilled figs and arugula; heirloom tomato gazpacho with Alaskan king crab; or house-smoked salmon with roasted beets and a confit of fingerling potatoes (most prevalent starch of Spice 2011). Bourbon and peach bread pudding with vanilla bean ice cream; Valrhona chocolate torte with wild blueberry ice cream; or a selection of ice creams and sorbets is a fetching dessert selection. Valid every night of the week.

China Grill: Last week we graded the CG menu as "grudging" due to two people having to share one main course and one side. We asked, "Would it kill CGM to offer smaller portions of two main courses and two sides?" Happy to say that China Grill has answered by upgrading the deal to two appetizers, two main courses, two sides, and two desserts per couple. That's the attitude! We're upgrading the deal to good -- and it's pretty close to being great.

Red the Steakhouse: An appropriately meaty menu. Starters: tomato bisque; house salad; caesar salad; watermelon salad with Andante Dairy Ballad goat cheese; or clams casino. Main course is heart of C.A.B. rib eye; five-ounce filet mignon; Atlantic salmon; brined and roasted Ashley Farms chicken breast; double-cut pork chop; bucatini, meatball, and red sauce; or linguine and red or white clam sauce. That's a lot of choices. Finale can be baked hot chocolate with whipped cream or key lime pie. Good every night.

Tantra Restaurant & Lounge: The Spice menu starts with tempting dishes such as Vietnamese noodle soup; "love apple" that is a sort of Caprese with vine-ripe tomatoes and Laura Chenel goat cheese; grilled baby-back ribs Asian style with warm bok choy salad; or mussels steamed "Moroccan" style with harissa sauce and black Thai rice. Main course quartet is beef tenderloin with porcini confit, black truffle mashed potatoes finished with Cuban coffee glaze and coriander cream sauce; chicken tikka; grilled salmon with gingered black Thai rice; or a seafood hot pot with lobster, mussels, and catch of the day in coconut broth. Dessert is "chef's daily selections."

The Dining Room: The regular menu at this little bistro is lovely and thoughtful. Some of the Spice offerings are less compelling. Starters: blue marlin ceviche, crab empanada, or beet salad with goat cheese and black pepper marshmallows. Entrées: rice with sherry-marinated duck breast, duck confit, and morel mushrooms; grouper with fried yuca and mango slaw; or sweet potato gnocchi. Dessert is coffee tres leches with mandarin foam -- whether you like it or not! Available every night (closed Monday).

Continue to the next page for the Great and the Grudging.