Hot Dogs With Blackberries and Pineapple, Sea Bass With Flan: Five Overwrought Menu Items
|They forgot the sauerkraut!|
For the most part, Miami restaurant dinner plates are cleaner and lighter than they were even a few years ago. But there are exceptions:
5. Zucchero: The insalata di spinaci brings a mound of baby spinach with fresh blueberries, sliced radish, passion fruit dressing, and almond-crusted goat cheese wrapped in toasted phyllo dough encased in an enigma ($9.95). Just kidding about the enigma, but two fruits, nuts, radish, goat cheese, and phyllo is an awful lot of stuff to pile onto delicate spinach leaves -- the key word here being awful.
4. Asia de Cuba: China Grill Management properties are known for piling plates high with numerous ingredients. Some work better than others, but this one doesn't look as though it would work at all: Chilean sea bass crusted with coconut and mustard seed, served with crab-and-corn flan, cilantro chimichurri, and jalapeño plum coulis ($54 for two). It's bad enough that Chilean sea bass is going extinct -- can't we allow the last of the species a bit of dignity?
3. Symcha: We're tempted to list the Maine lobster here, which comes with an avalanche of ingredients and "lobster amaretto tarragon cream sauce" ($41), but Symcha's tuna tartare touts (besides the tuna) palm hearts, tomato, cucmber, avocado, tempura flakes, champagne vinegar reduction, cilantro aioli, and Spanish naccarii sturgeon caviar ($20). It may be overwrought, but at least it's overpriced to match.
2. La Perrada de Edgar: What list of over-the-top foods would be complete without the Edgar Special? This Colombian hot-dog joint flings out franks with all manner of outrageous toppings, but none comes close to the sausage adorned with mozzarella cheese, pineapple, blackberries, plums, and whipped cream ($4.99).
1. Nexxt Cafe: Nexxt is renowned for overloading plates with food. But "Hayla's exotic salad" ($15.95), self-billed as "fantastic global cuisine," features salad greens, chicken breast, avocado, snap peas, carrots, edamame, and tortilla chips (and let's face it -- how can a person eat tortilla chips without edamame?). The dressing is citrus-honey, and also peanut vinaigrette. What's that? It seems as though something is missing? Right you are: a fresh grapefruit garnish. I think I'm going to be sick.
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