Edge Steak & Bar: Haute Cuisine at an Affordable Price
|Photo by billwisserphoto.com|
|Pork belly at Edge Steak & Bar.|
One of two lamb chops on my plate at Edge Steak & Bar was overcooked; it was supposed to be medium-rare but was served medium. A side order of haricots verts with mixed mushrooms was bland and contained too many crushed walnuts. Minor errors like those usually aren't noteworthy when reviewing a restaurant. But those missteps were notable because they were the only kitchen miscues I saw at Edge. Everything else in every meal -- from fresh slices of sourdough bread before dinner to beautifully crafted desserts at the finish -- was prepared to near perfection. And that is an unusual occurrence indeed.
There is nothing out of the ordinary about Edge's dining room inside Brickell's Four Seasons Hotel. It's handsome enough, tastefully dressed in varying shades of taupe and beige, but there is a hotel-dining-room cookie-cutter feel about it. Plus the music, including some incongruous disco, is played too loudly early in the evening.
If the weather is worthy, consider dining on the lovely terrace. The 76-seat area is lush with greenery; romantic with twinkling lights, lanterns, and gauzy curtains; and covered by a trellised canopy with a retractable awning. Except for being seven stories above Biscayne Bay, it feels like summer in the Hamptons.
Executive chef Aaron Brooks is a native Australian who spent the past decade journeying through Four Seasons kitchens from Vancouver to Boston. Chef de cuisine James King likewise earned his chops at Four Seasons venues, as well as at the Seafood Bar at the Breakers in Palm Beach and Ocean Grill at Amelia Island Plantation Resort. The clean, bright cuisine at Edge should greatly hone the already keen careers of both.
Read the full review of Edge Steak & Bar here.
View photos of Edge Steak & Bar here.