Bulla Gastrobar Takes Por Fin's Place

Categories: First Bites
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All photos by Zachary Fagenson
Inside Bulla.

Bulla Gastrobar, in the space that Por Fin once occupied, opens this week just off Miracle Mile. Short Order was invited to a friends-and-family opening to taste some of the menu and see how the space was transformed from a white-linen restaurant to what owner Carlos Centurion hopes will become a bustling, bar-centric Spanish eatery.

Despite the free meal, some diners must have been upset that liquor and jamón ibérico weren't gratis; they seemed to feel no shame while heckling our waitress about the speed with which plates and drinks landed on their table.

The interior is warmed with raw-wood tabletops, chalkboard-painted walls with some dishes' names written in sweeping script, and a communal table next to an enlarged bar with a cheese and charcuterie display. Hovering overhead is a back-lit blocky mosaic intended to make the bar the focal point of the room.

The menu is split into three sections. The main event, "tapas y raciones," features about two dozen dishes with the must-haves -- patatas bravas and so forth -- as well as some of their own creations like Huevos Bulla, a sort of Spanish poutine with homemade potato chips, a fried egg, Serrano ham, potato foam, and truffle oil.

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Queso de Cabrales.

There were also sections for cured meats and Spanish cheeses ranging from a pungent Cabrales to Garroxta, a hard goat's milk cheese.

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Buñuelos de Bacalao.

Of the few fried choices on the menu we tried the Buñuelos de Bacalao ($8). Crispy, salty, not-too-fishy codfish fritters came in a clay-red cazuela with a dollop of smooth romesco sauce.

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Cochinillo.

Cochinillo, or suckling pig ($19), spared some diners the uncomfortable experience of seeing the whole pig, face and all, before eating it. Perhaps a smart move for the well-heeled, Coral Gables clientele. A squat, compressed rectangle of juicy pork meat was topped with a thin crisp of skin and came with a few meaty oyster mushrooms covered in a simple ajo perejil, an olive oil and parsley sauce.

Location Info

Venue

Map

Por Fin Restaurant & Lounge - CLOSED

2500 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL

Category: Restaurant

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2 comments
Mejia
Mejia

LoL Same old Carlos....still using Mark Vidals recipes. Can't teach an old dog new tricks. Por Fin failed as a concept and so will this place. The great thing about Por Fin was that any of the employees that they unjustly fired or quit due to their INSANE corrupt policies went off and did MUCH bigger and better things. Shout out to Gio at EATING HOUSE! 

Andrew Jordan
Andrew Jordan

Hmmm....sounds like they are trying to copy Pubbelly. And the name? Doesn't mean anything in Spanish....but is surprisingly similar to El Bulli...the most famous restaurant in the world. Not a highly original concept.

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