Estiatorio Milos for Miami Spice: Just a Week Left, So Hurry Over
Time is an interesting concept. It seems as we get older, times goes by faster, or maybe it's the technological advances that are speeding up the way the world works. Though two months once seemed like a lifetime, August and September have gone by in a blip, and fall is here. You know what that means? You have one week left to experience Miami Spice, and if that means going to only one restaurant, we recommend Estiatorio Milos. As former New Times food critic Lee Klein mentioned in his review when the SoFi establishment opened, the eye-poppingly high checks are avoidable only during the two-month restaurant promotion.
Photos by Carla Torres King crab is in season, but only for four to six weeks. After that, gotta wait till next year. Milos doesn't freeze.
Costas Spiliadis, who founded the original Estiatorio Milos in Montreal, is an interesting man. At 70 years old and with a culinary empire under his chef's coat, he's as meticulous about the attire (the hostesses wear matching Grecian blue and beige dresses) and décor of the restaurant (the window treatments and dining room separators are made of cheesecloth) as he is passionate about the fish they serve.
That fish is brought in daily -- multiple times daily. And they never know what they're getting until it arrives at the airport. Sometimes executive chef Joshua Whaler doesn't even get his fish wish list fulfilled. The Hell's Kitchen alumnus has been with the Greek restaurant since December, so this is his first Miami Spice, and he's already done something special.
Charcoal-broiled Mediterranean octopus with oregano, wild Santorini capers, red wine vinegar, and olive oil can be found on the regular menu. The Miami Spice promo features a spin on the dish, adding sweet Holland bell peppers and a gigante bean purée. The star here isn't the octopus (although it's cooked to utter perfection and not overly charred) but the purée and pepper combined with the mollusk. Bet you never thought bell peppers and octopus would go well together. And now you will be able to have the gigante puree after Miami Spice, because Joshua is so pleased with it he's adding it to the original octopus dish.
There's also a raw bar tasting with fresh Raspberry Point and Pickle Point oysters, a bigeye tuna, and lavraki sashimi. Accompany it with a white wine for Spice -- we suggest a Malagousia from the Epanomi region ($10).