WTF? Esquire Says "Glitz Often Trumps Taste" in Miami Restaurants

Categories: Restaurant News

billwisser_interior_mckitchen.jpg
billwisserphoto.com
MC Kitchen serves the best Italian eats in the city, says Esquire.
Esquire sure doesn't know how to give a compliment.

The magazine just released its picks for the 20 best new restaurants in the nation, and one of Miami's own has made the list. MC Kitchen, the Design District restaurant helmed by chef Dena Marino and Brandy Coletta, received acclaim for its impeccable eats and handsome environment.

But a condescending attitude lurks beneath all the praise. Penned by John Mariani, a James Beard Award-nominated food writer, this article is not only misguided. It also belittles Miami's dining scene.

The patronizing starts at the very top.

"Quick: Name a great Italian restaurant in Miami. No? Okay, how about a real good one? Take your time. Nothing? Then here's news: MC Kitchen is not just the best and best-looking Italian restaurant in Miami; it's also one of the best in America," Mariani writes.

Quick: Name an uppity food writer who thinks its OK to offend an entire city to justify his opinion.

Uncouth, Mariani, so very uncouth.

Now, don't get me wrong. I agree with him on one thing: MC Kitchen is a great restaurant. But there's a problem in his reasoning. He thinks MC Kitchen is an exception -- but it isn't. This town is packed with "real good" Italian restaurants. Macchialina, Salumeria 104, and Toscana Divino are only a few.

Things get worse as he goes on. Mariani concludes, "[Marino's] food and Coletta's savvy coalesce in a sophisticated balance rare in a city where glitz often trumps taste." [Emphasis added.]

Um, newsflash. This isn't the '90s. Miami no longer signifies snobbery and overpriced restaurants. Our city is packed with fantastic places to dine. Spots such as the Cypress Room, Michy's, and Naoe rival restaurants in other metropolises. Sure, you can argue that glitz still trumps taste at some South Beach restaurants. But it certainly doesn't happen "often." And good spots definitely aren't "rare."

What I'm saying in this, Mariani: I'm not alone here. Others have also protested your elitist ways. So just give me a call next time you're in town. While the New York Times and Bon Appétit laud Miami dining, it looks like you, sir, could use a refresher.

Follow Emily on Twitter @EmilyCodik.

Follow Short Order on Facebook, on Twitter @Short_Order, and Instagram @ShortOrder.

Location Info

MC Kitchen

4141 NE 2nd Ave., Miami, FL

Category: Restaurant

My Voice Nation Help
3 comments
frankd4
frankd4 topcommenter

.............................the BEST thing about MIAMI is that it is so close to the United States

frankd4
frankd4 topcommenter

.................................dude,  MIAMI does lag in the food department HOWEVER it does try hard - the thing is rents are very HIGH and patrons are mostly visitors so there is a mentality to screw people

WHEREAS an italian restaurant in say, NYC,  that might serve real italians from the United Nations  who are ambassadors from the embassy and other official dignitaries has no such opportunity to fake it - its patrons include real piasanos from italy who would recognize a fraud

and compared to the north end of BOSTON well fugedaboudit - fresh food hand made daily by real italians for longer than there even was a MIAMI - (they don't know from "store-bought" processed foods - SYSCO and CHENEY BROS and HENRY LEE would go bankrupt)

or how about wooster street in new haven whereby many famous people visiting YALE must have either a PEPEs or a SALLYs apizza - so again the chance to screw the visiting patron never arrises because the visitors are all too important and powerful (bill clinton, henry winkler, dubbya bush, and previously frank sinatra and president reagan among many others)

whereas in MIAMI the whole thing is based on screwing people - GLITZ yes, TASTE nope

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...