The Butcher Shop in Wynwood: Confusion Reigns
It's Sunday night, and the graffiti-stamped walls of the Butcher Shop, a Wynwood restaurant/beer garden, are vibrating with the sound of what must be the work of Skrillex and Marilyn Manson's love child. Things could be softened by two beers, one beer, anything. But the busboy can't find the waitress, and the hostess just now notices our frantic waving. "OMG," she says without irony. "You haven't ordered drinks yet?"
billwisserphoto.com The Butcher Shop is good at one thing: beer.
A brunet waitress stumbles over to take our order, and soon a fattoush salad arrives. It's a pretty dish, layered with radishes, cucumber, toasted pita, and squirts of labneh cheese, but its dressing is cloying enough to sweeten a cup of tea. The greens drown in this syrup, which has formed an unsightly pool on the bottom of the plate.
Then, just when all feels lost, bossa nova squeaks through the speakers. A honeyed dressing becomes more tolerable. Slow service suddenly doesn't seem so bad. The mood lightens. And dinner starts to look up.
Well, for a moment.
In July, the Butcher Shop debuted in the same hipster neighborhood occupied by Gramps and the Salvation Army. For months, it teased Wynwood-goers with soft openings and parties. It launched with an innovative concept, mashing a beer garden with a restaurant/butcher shop.
Inside, a 24-foot meat case shows off cage-free Cornish hens, house-made sausages, chorizo, and different cuts of USDA Prime Black Angus beef. Outside, a square bar serves craft beers from bottles and taps like Wynwood Brewing's IPA and Bell's Amber Ale. Flat-screen TV sets play the football game. Beneath globe lights, picnic tables crowd around an outdoor grill. During the day, children sit on these wooden blocks and color with crayons while their parents eat a steak by the bar. At night, the Butcher Shop is all burgers and beers.
It seems like the perfect concept for a young, budding neighborhood. Before its debut, Wynwood had craft brews and restaurants, but it didn't have a place to get both suds and extensive fare. This place offers both.
Too bad it's good for only drinking beer.