Lure Fishbar Excels at the Simple Things
Find a yellowtail jalapeño roll at your neighborhood sushi joint and compare it to the one served at Lure Fishbar. They look similar enough: Coiled nori and rice are crammed with wasabi-spiked fish and then topped with jalapeño. But inside the grand Loews Miami Beach Hotel, the yellowtail tastes different -- its mellow flavor is enhanced by a texture that's smooth and buttery on the tongue.
billwisserphoto.com Grilled whole daurade
Beneath the chili pepper, this quality might go unnoticed. If you pause, though, you distinguish its charm. Like everything else at Lure, it is shockingly fresh.
In this ocean-themed dining room, seafood is king. Ice plates stacked with kusshi oysters, stone crabs, and Maine lobsters tower over polished tables, a display case reveals a bounty of seafood, and the menu features more than 15 types of sashimi.
"Uni, toro, fluke, kanpachi: You want it, I got it," a lively server gushes on a Thursday night.
Usually, Lure Fishbar doesn't get too creative with its fish. This is where women in patent-leather pumps nibble crabcakes while men in Tommy Bahama shirts wash down tempura shrimp with nautically themed drinks. Where Lure sets itself apart is in its sourcing.
Grilled whole daurade -- a petite silver fish served tail- and head-on -- needs nothing more than its accompanying watercress and charred lemon. The greenery adds bite; the citrus coaxes a subtle sweetness from the fish. And though it might sound austere, this daurade succeeds on its own -- devoid of any unnecessary diversions.
Lure Fishbar is certainly not new to the seafood business. The restaurant's flagship resides in SoHo, where chef Josh Capon has attracted streams of fish-loving clientele for years. South Beach is the first outpost outside New York, and the menu features the compulsory South Beach roll.
It is packed with salmon, cream cheese, mango sauce, and crisp tempura flakes -- and it costs $18.
Lure's fresh fish can cost you.