The Restaurant at the Setai Introduces Monthly Wine Dinner Series
All photos by Carina Ost Watermelon ravioli.
Last night marked the second in the monthly series of innovative wine dinners at The Restaurant at the Setai. To kick off the series in style, we were invited to watch them pop some bubbly with an evening of Veuve Clicquot Champagne.
To prepare for these four-course dinners, executive chef Mathias Gervais and sommelier Dwayne Savoie pair up. The process normally begins with the chef tasting the chosen wines and starts out the week long process of menu planning taking into consideration what is local and seasonal, what they can surprise local diners with veering from traditional dinner menu -- "That would be too easy," Gervais says -- and what works best for highlighting each glass.
The meal last night began with a vintage (2004) Veuve Clicquot Brut and an open watermelon ravioli with Maine lobster, grown Homestead grapefruit, spring herbs and citrus hiding beneath the compressed gelée veil infused with basil and cilantro. The dish was refreshing and highlighted this often forgotten mid-range vintage champagne in between the standard non-vintage Gold Label and the Dom Pérignons of the world.
The Veuve Clicquot Rosé (2004) was popular for all those who love pink and sparkly. It paired beautifully with a favorite dish of the night, dover sole.
The poached fish in a scallop mousse was highlighted with peas, asparagus and pops of Alverta President caviar. Although, it was the lemon thyme that French-born Gervais said was reminiscent of his backyard in Provence that brought this dish to the next level.
From La Grande Dame label, the brut (2004) was served in a wine glass for a richer effect that matched the veal dish with crawfish, morels and tarragon.