Sex on a Plate at New Eating House Pop-Up

Categories: First Bites
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Photo by Riki Altman
They've got a bone for you, lady.
"I want to have sex with this bone marrow," uttered the gal sitting on the barstool next to us as she closed her eyes and bit down on a tanned toast round topped with chimichurri and glistening globes of savory, meaty fat. "Seriously, if this was a man...."

Yeah, our first bites at Eating House were near damn orgasmic at times, too. That whipped ricotta tinged with lemon zest and olive oil in the shaved zucchini plate, the caramelized banana-miso blanket atop the charred Japanese eggplant (yes, you read that wacky combo right), the jar of whipped Nutella layered atop bananas foster puree and salted caramel... and don't even get us started on the fried chicken. Even the dishes we didn't have a chance to try looked simply sublime, such as the pork tenderloin in a Dr. Pepper reduction with raw and smoked apples and the Homestead tomato salad with nuoc cham, frozen coconut milk, and ginger.
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Roho Cuban Coffee Downtown: $6 For Breakfast Panini & Cafe Con Leche

Categories: First Bites
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Lee Klein
Inside Roho, looking out.
​A sign announcing the impending arrival of Kaña Cuban Coffee Roasters was in place at the downtown intersection of Flagler Street and Miami Avenue for many months (and is still noted on the company website). So it was a surprise when Roho Cuban Coffee opened in its place.

No matter. Roho is about as breezy and comfortable a spot to sit and sip joe that we know of. The indoor/outdoor space is designer Steven G.'s spin on Havana heyday decor, replete with cushioned chairs and couches and palm trees swaying on the sizable outside deck.
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Moloko: Crepes and Coffee Cheaper Than Starbucks

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All photos by Laine Doss
Moloko: coffee and crepes in Midtown.
Visiting the Shops at Midtown the other day, I felt sluggish. Suddenly, it hit me why: I hadn't had my caffeine fix yet.

Then I remembered that Moloko, a new coffee house, had opened up. Though its website touts crepe-making for children and a "coffee revolution" theme, the place is a small, narrow space with tall, wooden beamed ceilings. Dark red walls gave way to filled bookshelves. There was a chess board in the corner, along with some couches meant for lounging or chatting.

I sat down on one of the leather seats at the long coffee bar and ordered a nonfat latte ($2.65) with a shot of almond syrup (I needed a sugar fix, too). It was served in a tall blue mug, just strong enough, with a hint (not a douse) of almond flavoring. "Let me know if you want the coffee sweeter. I like to start with less and add more it someone wants it," the barista told me.
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Moloko

New Chef Aaron Taylor Puts Stamp On STK's Menu

Categories: First Bites
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Lesley Elliott
Taylor's new heart of palm salad at STK Miami.
About a month ago, we watched Aaron Taylor defect from Meat Market to take the top spot at STK, after Ralph Pagano went off to the races. And since a new chef usually means new menu items, you can look forward to a taste of something different next time you drop in for dinner at the restaurant that infamously declares it's "not your daddy's steakhouse."

What that really means, is that this scene is usually late night driven, with cocktails and celeb sightings galore, food possibly taking a back seat to the people watching. Big flavors are popular here, in addition to the giant hunks of red meat, obviously, many of STK's signature dishes are pretty heavy duty on the palate; foie gras French toast, lobster Rockefeller, short ribs.

Nevertheless Taylor has championed several straightforward dishes that are surprisingly simplified for STK's menu, like a buratta salad with heirloom tomatoes and fresh basil. There are also refined details; thin ribbons of heart of palm folded into a petite salad, with tiny slices of citrus and a spicy habanero vinaigrette. A sprinkling of edamame on crusty glazed sea bass with a meaty oyster mushroom, seems delicate in comparison to some of STK's usual fare.
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At Mare Nostrum, They're Flying It In From Spain

Categories: First Bites
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Lesley Elliott
Mare Nostrum serves the full menu at their fancy mosaic bar.
Brickell's newest fish and seafood emporium, Mare Nostrum, is importing everything from the chef (Pedro Gallardo moved here a little over two months ago from Murcia, Spain) to the tuna, which has to be frozen at minus sixty degrees Fahrenheit in order to make the trip, but more on that later.

The focus here is on fresh fish and seafood, prepared simply, although there are dishes for carnivores as well. An immense menu offers a mix of traditional Spanish bites, from croquetas (the real kind, more ham paste-y than potato'd up) to paella, as well as many classic Italian dishes such as spaghetti vongole ($22.95) and porcini risotto ($23.95).

The plates are all extremely pretty and the restaurant itself is airy, with high ceilings and touches of Mediterranean blueness abounding. Arguably the most gorgeous thing about this place is the kitchen, which seems to run on for miles. We wondered how it could be possible to execute a menu of Mare Nostrum's size, until Gallardo explained that the monster kitchen is staffed by a total of forty-two people.
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Lolita Cocina Seduces in SoBe: Taco Window Coming!

Categories: First Bites
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Lesley Elliott
The patio at Lolita, serving shots on the weekends until 5 a.m.
SoFi's latest addition, Lolita Cocina & Tequila Bar, recently surfaced in the old Nemo space. Aiming to bring sophisticated Mexican food with street cred to Miami, the CB5 Restaurant Group -- which operates two other Lolita Cocinas in the Northeast -- is also hoping to pick up patrons from area restaurants and bars that close for the day before Lolita, which stays open until 5 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

And coming soon will be a "taco window" that will serve from 2 a.m. till closing. There are also plans to launch brunch in the imminent future. We're not sure what this place looks like in the daylight, but after the first gigantic shot of tequila, it won't really matter anyway.

We gave you a glimpse on opening day and recently attended a tasting. Though the menu isn't exactly priced at street-food level, the attention to quality is rarely equaled by street cart vendors.
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Rusty Pelican: From Ruby Tuesday to Gem of an Eatery

Categories: First Bites
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Photo by Riki Altman
D.I.Y. tartare? Yes, please!
Right off the bat, we have a confession: We never ate at the former Rusty Pelican before the recent remodeling. We feared it would be musty inside and found it an ordeal to trek out to Virginia Key. Also, the menu didn't look any more appealing than a Ruby Tuesday's. But we've already been to Rusty Pelican once since our "first bite," and we're making plans to head there again. Here's why.
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The Federal's Opening-Night Dinner (Photos of Pig Wings)

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A shining beacon of hope for Miami's gastronomic scene
Every once in a while, we come across new eateries that wow us to the point where we can't wait to go again -- so we sneak in a mere two days after our first visit. That's what happened at the Federal Miami.

Described by opening-night patron Nina Stack as "friendly decadence," this could be the neighborhood's gotta-have-it-once-a-week place. With reasonable prices; fast, friendly service; and an array of delectable comfort-food dishes to choose from, we can only hope the Fed gets the love and nurturing from Miami that it deserves.

I attended the soft opening, and to give you a better idea of what the food was like, I went equipped with my camera. Makes sense, right? Then the Jar-o-Duck happened. Accompanied by delightfully candied sweet potatoes and charred marshmallow fluff, the slow-cooked duck on crostini was but the beginning of what was in store for my dining experience. From that point forward, it was as if only the food and I existed, and having been so consumed in what I was consuming, I took not a single photo.
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Smashburger's Burger Ain't A Smash

Categories: First Bites
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Lee Klein
Smashburger
Smashburger started in Colorado in 2007. There are 143 locations (half company-owned, half franchised), with 450 more franchise agreements already on the books. The first Miami branch opened on Biscayne Boulevard at 146th Street a couple of weeks ago (on the lefthand side of the Total Wine strip mall). We were sort of looking forward to it.

Forbes 500 recently cited Smashburger as one of its 100 Rising Star companies -- the only restaurant on the list. That's fitting, because this burger outfit is all corporate marketing and no beef -- or at least no tasty beef.

To put it another way: You will never see Smashburger make it onto a 100-best list in any respectable food publication.

To put it one more way: The hamburgers I tried here sucked.
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Blue Collar Serves Simply Good Food

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All photos by Laine Doss
Chef-owner Daniel Serfer works the grill at Blue Collar.
Blue Collar on Biscayne Boulevard opens its doors tomorrow, and we dropped by for a visit to sample the food. The room's decor lives up to the blue collar name.

Old metal lunch pails (the kind that steel workers take their meals in, not the ones with pictures of Scooby Doo) are nailed to the light grey walls. The Beatles and Rolling Stones play in the background, as the waitresses, dressed in '50s-style diner shirts, take your drink order and point out their personal menu favorites.

We liked the casual vibe and the drink prices. Wines by the glass start at $5 for a French Sauvignon Blanc and PBR is three bucks a can. (Go for broke with a Cigar City IPA, Guinness, or Terrapin Rye for $5.)

There was more to like, frankly. The large assortment of noshes on the menu are great for sharing. With offerings ranging from Chanukah latkes ($5) to vaca frita topped tostones ($6), all bases are covered. "You've gotta try the pork and beans" ($7), chef-owner Daniel Serfer told us. "It's my favorite thing on the menu."
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