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​In this week's Café, we take a look at Chef Philip Ho, a new Chinese dim sum establishment. Ho debuted in Sunny Isles Beach a little more than a month ago, yet the restaurant is already burning on the tongues of local food trenders like too much Chinese mustard. Here is a snippet of the review:

Two of the most stunning tastes of the day came via dessert-like offerings. Upon biting into an egg custard tart with buttery crust hot from the oven, you might think it can't get any better. It can. Try the same tart with the added allure of black truffles. And then finish up with a steamed egg custard lava bun, the ball of light white dough oozing with thick, sweet, orgasmic egg yolk filling.

Read the full review of Chef Philip Ho here.

Chef Philip Ho
16850 Collins Ave., Miami Beach
305-974-0338

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Haven's nitro maple-bacon ice cream

​This week we review Haven, a South Beach gem. Here's a quick sneak peek:

Like the ambiance, the cuisine pulsates too. Haven flashes a bright young chef in Todd Erickson, whose gastronomic smarts are what make this more than just a kick-ass 21st-century psychedelic lounge. Erickson was formerly sous chef at Zuma, and before that had been named "Best Chef Under 27" by our sister paper, the Dallas Observer (he is now 31). Erickson's menu of globally inspired small plates satisfies via innovative, delicately crafted flavor pairings (molecular fireworks are reserved for drinks and desserts). There are six categories of what might be called haute bar snacks: Crudo ($4 to $14); Green ($8 to $10); Roll ($9 to $12); Crisp ($7 to $12); Skewer ($8 to $10); and Slider ($7 to $11).

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Bacalao carpaccio at Andalus

​An opening morsel to whet the appetite for next week's Cafe review of Andalus:

At American fairs held in the early 20th century, cigars would often be awarded to contestants who could ring a bell by hitting the base of a pole with a sledgehammer. It is believed the phrase "Close, but no cigar" came about as consolatory words for those who just missed the mark. Andalus, in Pacific Time's former Design District space, has been trying its best to resonate with diners since opening nearly three months ago. It is operated by the team behind Little Havana's El Rincón Asturiano, and its aim -- an authentic Andalusian-style restaurant -- is true. Nonetheless, a pair of dining experiences here didn't quite clang our chimes.

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Lee Klein

Thali tandoori

​A spicy starter preceding this week's Cafe review:

The thali encompasses a lot of different tastes at an attractive price, and as such provides a solid introductory sampling of menu items for those visiting the restaurant for the first time. That said, if one of the thali dishes really proves alluring, there probably isn't enough portioned to sate your fancy. Going with two or three full entree plates may in the long run be a heartier and more satisfying means of dining.

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Lee Klein

Lulu's snapper in cream sauce

A little lulu of a chew from next week's restaurant review:

"'I am of those who like to stay late at the café,' the older waiter said. 'With all those who do not want to go to bed. With all those who need a light for the night.'" The passage from Ernest Hemingway, perhaps better than any in literature, exemplifies the need for a no-fuss place to meet, eat, drink, talk, read, or simply sit and watch people pass by.

Lulu hopes to encourage a similar camaraderie at the bustling intersection of Main Highway and Commodore Plaza. White letters on the back of the staff's black T-shirts spell out the mission: neighborfood. Plus the place stays open until 2 a.m. Wednesday through Saturday for "those who do not want to go to bed." Granted, Coconut Grove 2011 isn't exactly the Latin Quarter of the '20s, and conversation emanating from the restaurant's sidewalk tables will likely not be confused with the sort of verbiage exchanged between Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald. Still, Lulu is a hospitable stop where friends can gather and enjoy themselves over affordable wines and a smart selection of popular bites.

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Lee Klein

Jimmy'z churrasco

​​A quick bite to go from next week's Cafe review:

Upon entering Jimmy'z Kitchen in Wynwood, one is struck by how much bigger, brighter, and more colorful it is than the original outlet in South Beach. Granted, it would have been nearly impossible for the new North Miami Avenue venue to be any smaller than the teeny 16-seater on Alton Road. That place, still going strong, is ensconced in a weathered strip mall and situated far enough from the street that after almost four years, many SoBe natives still don't know it exists. That's about to change, perhaps along with belated acknowledgment for hitherto underappreciated chef/owner Jimmy Carey, who earned his chops at Miami's beloved and long-departed Brasserie Le Coze (a spinoff of NYC's legendary Le Bernardin).

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Lee Klein

Blue Door's Lemon Meringue Pie

​A peek at next week's Cafe review of the renamed and refocused restaurant at the Delano:

Crabavocat and "big ravioli" are two longstanding Troisgrois classics still offered. The latter is sensational, a single, sizable, sumptuous ravioli plumped with mousseline of taro root, perfumed with a drizzle of truffle oil, and bathed in a foam of wild mushroom "cappuccino". The crabavocat is really just a juiced-up version of crab-stuffed avocado, elevated by a spicy tomato coulis and a few crisp shrimp. We preferred the crabcake, large pearly lumps of jumbo lump crab barely bound by anything but a light bread coating.

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Photo by Jacob Katel

​A small Japanese-Mediterranean bite from this week's restaurant review:

Sawa is a variety show of a restaurant. Diners are treated to an Ed Sullivan-like procession of sushi, kebabs, tapas, soups, salads, entrees, hookahs, belly dancers (accompanied by ear-splitting music), LED shows, and sports on flat-screen TV sets. There is a menu for breakfast, lunch, dinner, a five-hour happy hour, late-night happy hour, weekend brunch, wines, bottle service, and cocktails (22 flavors of vodka) -- plus an extensive 18-item bill of fare for dogs. The only thing missing is a sommelier named Topo Gigio.

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Just a short stretch of Route 9's Cafe review coming up next week:

Proteins on entree plates were nicely executed: A small wedge of salmon steak and cylinder of prosciutto-wrapped pork loin both boasted crisp exteriors and were moist and impeccably cooked within; flank steak, cut into thick strips, was flavorful. Accompaniments on each plate were wanting. Steak came with two long, skinny hearts of romaine lettuce grilled and lightly dressed with blue cheese (meh); five little cippolini onions were served alongside the pork (less than meh); salmon rested upon a bed of bland, soggy, overcooked cous cous (awful).

Route 9
1915 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables
305-569-9009

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​A tiny taste of next week's restaurant review:

Chicken tikka proved a notch or three above what you'll find at local Indian joints: tender, juicy, skinless-and-boneless thighs redolent of tandoor grill and garam masala spices. A side of somewhat fiery mint sauce accompanied the blushing bird, along with a pair of spherical onion fritters. Dishes here are billed as "family-style," generally taken to mean "to be shared" -- which makes the serving of two little fritters for three people seem puzzling and parsimonious.

The Restaurant at the Setai
2001 Collins Ave., Miami Beach
305-520-6000

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